Modern dining in Europe has always been as much about street food as Parisian bistros and Italian trattorias. But rarely has street food commanded quite so many column inches. Today, in a transitory and frenetic, cost-of-living crisis-hewn world, falafel wraps and prawn burgers – affordable, quick, yet irrefutably delicious – are arguably the most important food out there.
Enter the European Street Food Awards, part of the biggest competition of its kind in the world. Five years since conception, the event has grown to feature 16 countries, each one hoping to be crowned the continent’s best.
This year, after two years of Covid- related complications, the final will take place in Berlin, with street vendors from Sweden to Cyprus, Latvia to Scotland competing.
Many participants bring variations on classic dishes from their homeland – see England’s entry, a plump Scotch egg – while others draw on experiences abroad, or family heritage. From Switzerland? A complex pork and cucumber broth inspired by Thailand.
The awards are the work of Food Mutiny, hospitality professionals who wanted to better engage with a growing community of street food sellers and see a centuries-old tradition of selling on the hoof given a greater spotlight.
Twelve years ago, Food Mutiny launched the British Street Food Awards in a car park in Ludlow, a contest that has since grown into a national event. Next year there will be an inaugural US version.
Back to Europe, and founder Richard Johnson is gearing up for this year’s final in the German capital.
“We’ve celebrated banitsa from Bulgaria, zander from Russia, karjalanpiirakka from Finland, Liège waffles from Belgium, gelato from Italy, burek from Bosnia and churros from Spain,” he said. “Street food is taking over the world. And that’s because we are choosing to eat in different ways. We don’t want a fixed starter-main course-dessert menu any more – we want a bit of this and a bit of that. It’s flirty, low-commitment dining, and it’s why pop-ups and street food have become so popular. Street food is making the world a much nicer place to be.”
