One of the loudest online conversations about food centres around carbonara. Namely, whether the addition of cream is OK.
As most people now know – thanks to continued vitriol from irate Italians – a classic, traditional – why, even authentic – carbonara is a simple dish. It is one that requires only five ingredients: spaghetti, guanciale (pork from the jowl of the pig), pecorino Romano, eggs, and black pepper. Lots of black pepper.
Discussions go even further when you begin to consider the number of eggs, and whether only the yolk ought to be used. Generally, it depends on the number of servings – some whole eggs might form the basis, but then only the yolk is needed, for richness, if proceedings start to multiply.
There are also disputes around pasta water, additional seasoning, cooking time. It’s all such a minefield. There are so many variations, and carbonara changes from house to house, town to town. I once had quite an absurd version in Bologna. I should’ve stuck to mortadella and tortellini in brodo.
Often, it feels a little like Italy is merely trolling us all for a laugh. “Hey, look at these philistines,” they say, as we slurp budget prosecco and mix mascarpone with tomato sauce and slather it over penne. One of my favourite home-cooked meals, by the way.
Romans, in particular, become stressed when dishes are vandalised. They might be the Italian pin-up, not least because it is their food that has garnered the most fame. Carbonara is known the world over, and for good reason: it is sensational. The very definition of creating something sensational from so little. And it is so affordable, too. The Romans are so good at accessible dining.
But here we are in 2023, and while tradition must and should be upheld, what is food without evolution? We wouldn’t be eating triple-cooked chips had a crazy man called Heston not been crazy in Berkshire. And dear God, triple-cooked chips really are a game-changer. Imagine visiting a posh pub today and not seeing them on the menu. It just wouldn’t happen.
Who’s to say whether Tom Cenci’s take on carbonara is a game-changer. It’s certainly not carbonara, per se. Serve it to a Roman nonna and she may well try to conquer you again.
What I will say is that Cenci’s celeriac carbonara is a beautiful dish to eat. The recipe includes cream. And onions, a total no-no when constructing the original. But it is heartening, warming, and beautifully indulgent. So here it is: celeriac carbonara.
Whatever that is, and whatever that means. And if you don’t want to piss off any Italians yourself, head to Cenci’s Nessa in Soho, eat it, and leave.
Celeriac Carbonara
Serves 2-4
Ingredients
1 celeriac
150g shallot, diced
500g pancetta lardons
1 litre double cream
Salt + pepper
300ml white wine
2 duck egg yolks
Rapeseed oil
Bowl of water, with lemon juice added
A little of each of these to garnish:
Truffle
Parmesan
Parsley
Panko breadcrumbs
Olive oil
Method
First, cut the skin off the celeriac and put through a spiraliser (if you don’t have one, cut into ribbons with a sharp vegetable peeler). Place into lemon water till needed.
Dice the pancetta and sweat in a pan, allowing all the fat to come out and the pancetta to turn light brown. Drain. Set pancetta aside.
Add the shallots and sweat in a little oil, add white wine, and simmer until evaporated.
Add pancetta then, add cream and reduce on a very low heat for an hour. Salt and pepper to taste.
Next, bring the rapeseed oil to 80C and add the duck egg yolks. Leave the yolks in the oil until needed.
Mix the pancetta, cream and shallot mixture with the celeriac. Put a duck egg yolk on top of each serving..
Garnish with truffle, parmesan, parsley and panko breadcrumbs.
