Turkey is such a difficult bird. Not only does it require extensive technique and planning to cook well from the off, it also doesn’t inspire much in the way of leftovers.
A turkey curry? If the meat wasn’t dry before, it will be after sitting in sauce for however long. I’m not saying I don’t think turkey curry is an admirable pursuit. I just don’t think it’s a particularly good one either: we in Britain must learn that meat must be cooked on the bone; curry is no exception. The fact supermarkets sell skinned and boneless breast fillets by the ton is de facto anti-food.
Anyway, there are ways to re-energise meat. In the same way arborio rice is recycled as arancini post-risotto – I find it hard to trust a proper restaurant with arancini on the menu but no risotto dish – turkey and the like can be replayed as croquettes.
The best croquettes are prepared with croquettes in mind. They’re not an afterthought like arancini, really. But they do lend themselves to leftovers. Cook a béchamel and add whatever is desired. On the right day, in suitable circumstances, I can eat continuously, never becoming full.
Also, if you do as I did and go budget skiing in Sierra Nevada, Spain, which I thoroughly recommend, après-ski isn’t truffle and caviar and champagne, as served in the bougie locations Russians go to – unless you look for these – it’s Estrella and croquetas (new spelling). Ham and cheese are always at the front of everyone’s mind. Yes, crab, or any seafood, mushrooms, or vegetables; all deserving and enjoyable.
But ham and cheese, juvenile as it may be, is the pinnacle of heaven in a creamy sauce, deep fried and crisp. The combination is up there with bacon and eggs; asparagus and hollandaise; plaice in butter, capers and lemon.
And so back to turkey. It’s here, it’s leftover, it’s ready and willing. Mix it with the béchamel, add ham, and throw in gruyère cheese. Hopefully there is leg meat knocking around. Crucial in things like this because of the elevated flavour.
Follow the Irish chef Maura Baxter’s recipe. She’s head chef at a French restaurant 65a in London, having moved to London from the much-loved Cornstore in Cork. The whiskey ketchup is the perfect accompaniment. Comforting, resourceful cooking and a tremendous way to use up turkey not eaten on Christmas Day.
Turkey, ham hock & gruyère croquettes with Irish whiskey ketchup
Makes 10 large croquettes
Ingredients
For the croquettes
200g cooked brown turkey meat, diced
100g cooked ham hock, diced
300g mashed potato
2 shallots, diced
2 cloves garlic, diced
15g chopped thyme and sage
200g breadcrumbs
2 eggs and 50ml milk, mixed
100g flour
60g gruyère cheese
Salt and pepper, to taste
For the Irish whiskey ketchup
400g tomatoes, chopped
100g tomato paste
2 onions, diced
6 cloves garlic, diced
50ml apple cider vinegar
60g brown sugar
30ml Worcestershire sauce
20g onion powder
20g garlic powder
10g salt and pepper
A glug of Irish whiskey
Method
For the croquettes:
In a large pan, sweat off the shallots and garlic, then add the turkey, ham hock and herbs. Add the mash and season the mixture with salt and pepper. Add the gruyère cheese.
Portion the mixture into croquettes and roll in the flour.
Dip in egg and milk mix, then roll in breadcrumbs.
Chill the croquettes for 2 hours.
Pan-fry the croquettes until golden brown, then warm through in the oven.
For the Irish whiskey ketchup:
Chop the tomatoes and mix with the tomato paste in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the diced onions and garlic.
Add the apple cider vinegar, brown sugar, Worcestershire sauce, onion powder, garlic powder, salt and pepper.
Finally, add a good glug of Irish whiskey.
Cook through, then whisk to a medium-thick consistency.
