Paris did not need the Olympics, or Emily in Paris to confirm its transformation into a film set for affluent tourists, primarily Americans. It has been going on for years – the city’s heart and soul are being auctioned off, with little regard for the local residents who breathe life into our historic streets.
The recent controversy surrounding the eviction of the local pétanque club from Montmartre — Club Lepic Abbesses Pétanque (Clap) — epitomises this unsettling trend. For over five decades, Clap has been a sanctuary for pétanque enthusiasts, occupying a hidden corner of the chic Avenue Junot, a few minutes’ walk from Sacré-Cœur basilica, since 1971.
This space, cherished by locals, is now under threat as a neighbouring luxury hotel and restaurant called L’Hotel Particulier seeks to expand, creating a garden that will consume the club’s space. City hall has sided with the hotel, resulting in a court decision that could evict the club.
This has sparked outrage among residents, including actors like Pierre Richard and Fabrice Luchini, who are campaigning to save this piece of Parisian heritage. The municipality says it is reclaiming the space for public use, yet the reality is that this change is entirely for the benefit of a private enterprise.
A decision by the Conseil d’État, the appeal court for administrative matters, to uphold the eviction order has only fuelled local fury. Since April 19, members of the club have been camping out on the grounds, determined to protect it. But their peaceful protest turned dramatic on May 19, when a fire broke out on the hotel’s facade. The incident, currently under investigation, has intensified the entire situation.
This argument over a single pétanque court is not an isolated incident. It reflects a broader pattern of gentrification that is reshaping Paris. The upcoming Olympics further underscore this issue – ticket prices are exorbitantly high, and accessible only to those who can afford to buy them in bulk. Historic parts of the city are being annexed by corporations like LVMH for fashion shows and product placements, to the bemusement and irritation of the locals who have called these streets home for generations.
Anne Hidalgo, the mayor of Paris, has been fiercely criticised for urging on this transformation. In a collective op-ed, several sports and cultural personalities, including Yannick Noah, and Fabien Galthié, urged the Paris City Hall to act to save Montmartre’s unique cultural identity.
“The mayor of Paris once again attempts to sell off the city’s cultural heritage in favour of lucrative activities,” they wrote in Le Figaro. “This drive for uniformity seeks to mould this ‘village in Paris’ into an impersonal, trivial, and commercial entity. We assert the right to maintain a place of diversity, a green oasis, and a space that is part of the capital’s sporting heritage. [The club] is a lung allowing the residents of the 18th, regardless of their social condition or age, to meet, exchange, and share. Shopkeepers, teachers, waiters, unemployed individuals, entrepreneurs, artists… everyone finds their place here.”
Looking at the situation in Montmartre, it is hard to disagree. A recent visit to L’Hotel Particulier shows why locals are so worried.
The hotel has not only taken over the pétanque grounds but also an alley that once connected different parts of the neighbourhood. The food is overpriced and underwhelming (€58 for tough and tasteless veal), and it is aimed squarely at tourists and Hollywood stars like Eva Longoria and Brad Pitt rather than locals. This is not Paris, but a caricature designed for wealthy visitors.
Despite the ongoing battles, there are glimmers of hope. The bouquinistes, or booksellers, along the Seine, another emblem of Parisian culture, recently won their fight to remain in place, despite pressures from the Olympic organisers to have them removed for the duration of the games. The spirit of resistance still thrives in Paris.
The battle for the Montmartre pétanque club is not just about one small venue; it is about preserving the essence of Paris. The city must decide whether it wants to remain a vibrant community, or whether it will continue its descent into a sanitised playground for the rich.
Emma-Kate Symons is a Paris-based journalist and columnist
